Photo by Andrew Buckley
The surfer of this 40 foot wave, on a reef some fifteen kilometres off the coast of Western Australia, explains what it feels like, to do that :
“It was not like any other wave I’ve seen, it was a real evil wave, the hardest wave I’ve ever had to surf.
“It all happened so quickly though I didn’t even realise what was happening, I just knew it was a big, powerful chuck of ocean, it was just amazing.”
“It breaks so far out, right in the middle of the ocean, the deepest water you can get. It’s really cold and choppy and rough, and the water is really black out there, it’s very creepy and eerie to be out there.”
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